July 20, 2021
In 1929, the fashion police really did exist, patrolling the beaches to ensure that bathing suits were not immodest. The woman in this image is being led away because her bathing suit was a little too short.
In Margate, in the U.K., people used a “bathing machine” in 1776. This “machine” was a booth carried by horses into the water to allow them to wade in the water from behind a canvas while maintaining their privacy. Swimming became less restrictive in the 1800s, however, they were still expected to dress modestly, and their beach wear was quite cumbersome. Women’s swimsuits had high necks, long sleeves, skirts, and pants and were often made of wool. Sometimes lead was sewn in to keep them from floating upwards. With the weight of their attire, women weren’t really swimming per se, but instead jumping in the waves while tethered to a rope. In 1915, they started to swim, which necessitated a reduction in fabric.
Bathing Suits And The Law
As people’s concern about the dangers of the bathing suit increased, some municipalities started to regulate the bathing suit, and even employed swimsuit police to make sure that bathing suits weren’t breaking the rules. One of the worst offenses: a bathing suit that was higher than six inches above the knees. The swimsuit police would measure the distance between the bottom of the kneecap, and women could be sent home, forced to cover up, or arrested. In Chicago, they had “beach tailors” who could attach fabric to the suit to hide the offending neck or extra bit of leg exposed by a too-short swimsuit or close up oversize armholes. In the 1915 Santa Monica Bay Outlook, an article argued that people should not be allowed Some argued as well that bathing suits of any sort worn more than 20 feet away from the high tide line were offensive.
The Freedom To Swim
Annette Kellerman, a swimmer, and star of vaudeville and film was arrested on a beach in Boston. For what? Her bathing suit, adopted from England and similar to men’s suits of the time, showed arms, legs, and neck. She had adapted the suit, giving it legs and a collar, but it was too tight, revealing what was underneath. She was able to argue in court that the suit allowed her to move freely in the water and be able to practice her sport. Later, Kellerman wrote in her book, How to Swim, "Not only in matters of swimming but in all forms of activity woman's natural development is seriously restricted and impaired by social customs and costumes and all sorts of proprudish and Puritanical ideas. The girl child long before she is conscious of her sex, is continually reminded that she is a girl and therefore must forego many childhood activities." Despite her win the courts, some people were quite opposed to the form fitting style, but it was popular, and the suits continued to shrink.
Men Were Policed As Well
Men may have had a little more freedom, but they were not immune to this. Men without shirts were not allowed on the beach in Atlantic City, not because the modesty laws prohibited it, but because Atlantic City didn’t want “gorillas on our beaches.” If the men went topless, they could be fined and asked to cover up or, at worst, arrested. These rules were overturned in 1937. In 1920 in Biloxi, Mississippi, Fred Randall and Leo Bickman were each fined $5 (more than $60 today) for wearing one piece, or trunk bathing suits without other clothing to cover up. They broke a law which stated that it was against the law “to appear on any Biloxi street or to loiter in any public place off of the beach attired in a bathing costume, unless said person wears a suitable robe covering the body from shoulders to below the knees.” Granted, they were not on the beach when this happened, but the maximum fine for the offense was $100 which amounts to more than $1000 today. A bit much for wearing a bathing suit.
The Regulations Began To Ease