April 29, 2021
Native Americans were the first to use the area as a trading post
Anyone visiting New Orleans has to stop by the French Market at least once. Photographed in 1906, this alluring take on the open-air markets of Europe has long been the place where people across the world come to peddle their wares and shop for offbeat local items while getting a bite to eat.
The French Market has been operating for more than three centuries, and this colorized photo of the area at the turn of the century makes the whole scene feel vibrant and alive. It's as if you're walking through the market, smelling food on the grill, and listening to the hustle and bustle of the city. Considered the oldest public market in the United States, the French Market in New Orleans has come a long way since its inception as a trading post for Louisiana's indigenous people.
Long before it was a must-see tourist attraction the French Market was just an open-air trading post where Native American people exchanged goods and services near what's now known as Jackson Square. It wasn't until 1782 that the Spanish constructed the first building at the intersection of Chartres and Dumaine that served as an early version of the market.
The earliest versions of the market were destroyed by the destructive winds of hurricane season. It wasn't until 1813 that the first longstanding building was put in place. Now known as the Meat Market, the longest surviving building in the French Market was designed by Jacques Tanesse and constructed by Gurlie and Guillot. After the construction of the Meat Market the area continued to thrive and grow as immigrants from Europe, Africa, and the Caribbean made their way to New Orleans and transformed the area into a vibrant hub of commerce.
The French Market continued to grow into the 19th century as City Surveyor Joseph Pilie constructed a building that was meant to be specifically used as the Vegetable Market. The initial version of the building was constructed by Jean Felix Pinson in 1822. Construction on the building continued until 1830. Three years later more buildings went up around the Vegetable Market that became known as the Red Stores.
As more buildings went up, the open air exchange continued to bloom and grow until the Bazaar Market building went up in 1872 to hold some of the immense business that was taking place in the square. Not just any old building, this piece of architecture was designed by Joseph Abeilard, one of the first African American architects in the country. It's fitting that this groundbreaking architectural achievement would occur in New Orleans. The city is one of the most racially diverse in the country, even in the 19th century.
The French Market comes into the 20th century
By the early 20th century, the French Market was codified into an actual business arena where contractors and stall-holders paid monthly fees to hold down their businesses. Around this time, the city began enforcing sanitary and security measures in the area which helped turn the market into a place worth exploring if you had time to kill, and not just the kind of place where you'd pop in and out of when you needed one or two items.
While there were plenty of markets across the country, the French Market in New Orleans was then and remains to this day a parallel to the open markets of Europe where someone can shop, eat, or just lounge and people watch if that's what they want to do. The market fits the entire vibe of the city. No one is really in a hurry to get anywhere, but if you need to get something done it's all there for the taking.
The French Market is New Orleans
The metaphorical stakes for the modern day version of the market were placed in 1932, when the city of New Orleans began negotiating a franchise agreement with the French Market Business Men’s Association. By 1934, the FMBMA and the city of New Orleans had struck a deal and the market was able to run as a corporation.
While this sounds like the kind of thing that would strip the French Market of its magic, it actually helped the small collection of disparate businesses become its own autonomous business that survives to this day. The French Market, much like New Orleans, is a place that thrives on change.
The entire market, including many of the original buildings standing in the area, were cleaned up and modernized (although modernized for the 1930s). New buildings were constructed for the Fruit and Vegetable Market and a wholesale fish market went up along the levee. This may reconstruction of the French Market didn't change the DNA of the beloved area, it just made it more friendly to people visited the area. Now longer was the market a place to be navigated like a Sherpa climbing the Himalayas, it was a place to enjoy, explore, and to be a part of the community.